Jeff - Wine Specialist, North Glendale
"I'll be the first to admit that I am not a fan of 'natural, skin contact' wines. Philosophically, I support everything they are and stand for...minimal intervention, indigenous yeasts, lack of fining and filtering, minimal additions of sulfites, etc. And...given my traditional wine palate, I don't enjoy brettanomyces, the yeast responsible for the vinegar in our kitchen cupboards. I love Belgian sour beers, and I can even get into 'pet-nats,' which for me are somewhat of the wine equivalent. However, funky, earthy 'still' wines typically occur to me as...bad. That said, there still exists a curiosity for the category as the wines look cool, hip, and fun. The customers who love the category seem to love the category, leaving me wondering what I'm missing out on.
In the category that is natural, skin contact wine, there is a wide range of...funkiness. Some are far friendlier than others. If you are looking for a 'gateway' into the category, I highly recommend Hoof & Lur's Moschofilero 2023 from Arcadia, Greece. Moschofilero is a white grape with natural pink hues, perfect for a rosé.
I LOVE Hoof & Lur's Moschofilero and turn people onto this all the time. When I cracked open my bottle, I was expecting the winery's higher-end offering. On first sip, I realized this was an entirely different wine. The wine certainly has funkiness, though it isn't overpowering. The acid is still bright and crisp, and the fruit still shows through beautifully. I could taste the familiar tart strawberry and raspberry notes as the centerpiece of this wine. The subtle effervescence made the wine livelier on the palate, and at just under $20, it's the perfect 'gateway' into the category."